Paris – Day 14 – September 22nd – Last Day in Paris! Montmartre, Ladurée, Tour Saint-Jacque, Le Relais de l’Entrecote and Goodbye!

Our last full day in Paris sprung up to meet us, and we were not prepared!

The day began with the threat of rain. After two weeks of great weather, we couldn’t really complain about the two drizzly days at the end… could we?

We began our day with a walk to Montmartre, taking in everything on the way. We were saying goodbye to a beautiful city with every step we took.

The foot of the staircase that leads to Sacré-Cœur Basilica at the apex of Montmartre.
The fountains just prior to the last staircase from the top…

Sacré-Cœur Basilica is an amazing place to view the city. From the top of the hill, all of Paris spreads out below you…

Just a few steps along the way to the top!

Sacré-Cœur Basilica really is an architectural wonder!

And, yes, of course we did the thing where the sinking house is sinking! The Sinking House of Montmartre is now officially famous…

The trickery seems fitting for the bohemia of Montmartre…

Prior to this visit, it seemed there was always a service taking place in Sacré-Cœur. I had only ever been able to stand at the back and look into the church. For this visit, though, we had the entire church open to us!

I really got a sense of just how vast the basilica really was. Glad we chose this day to go.

We did a LOT of walking around on our last day. After we walked around up in Montmartre for a while, and stopped in a little restaurant for a petit-déjeuner while waiting out the rain, we walked back down the hill.

Another thing we decided to check off our list! Macarons in Paris. Where else to do this but Ladurée!

One cannot merely window-shop at Ladurée!
Ladurée

We decided to take our treasure to the river and find a place to sit down there…another last day goodbye! The Seine called out to us. But, first, a Bouquiniste along the way.

The treasured Bouquinistes line the walkways beside the river…

With the river at our feet and the Louvre in our sights, we found a nice place to sit and gaze about…

If you want to say goodbye to a city, you need to walk that city, go to its hearts, wander aimlessly like a flâneur. But you also need to take little breaks, stop and sit and watch the city go by about you…have a treat…

We watched the river for a bit, knowing we were leaving it for a very long time…if not forever.

After our snack, we were ready to continue our exploration and goodbyes.

Two weeks and we still hadn’t made our way to the pretty Square du Vert-Galant! We needed to remedy that. This is the pretty little park at the western tip of the Ile de la Cité…next to the Pont Neuf! Such a lovely spot.

Another must-do item on the bucket list was Tour Saint-Jacque. We kept missing out on it. The visiting hours are hard to nail down and possibly sporadic. Anyway, Michael said THIS IS THE DAY. And it was so…

This tower is one of the iconic starting points for the Camino de Santiago…

Michael stayed behind, waiting at the bottom. I went with a small tour group. There are over 300 steps to the top of the tower and it’s a low narrow spiral staircase. A bit of a workout. You need to be fit to do this tour.

There is SO much to see on the way up!

Once you get to the top, that’s the real prize! It’s definitely one of THE best views of the city. I feel like I kept saying that no matter where we went, but this time…it was just spectacular! In every direction!

I was truly stunned by the spectacle of it. The entire city was just there! The skies had cleared and it was a perfect September day…and the city opened up!

Even Sacré-Cœur and Montmartre were there, for one last goodbye…

I couldn’t get enough!

It was time to come back down to earth! Michael was waiting…and we had dinner plans!

It was time to say goodbye to Saint-Germain-des-Prés! But not before returning to one of our favourite restaurants and visiting the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés (Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés).

I couldn’t decide if the church was gaudy or beautiful, but I suppose some things could be both. It reminded me a bit of Sainte-Chapelle, only without all the glass.

What did we choose for our last meal in Paris? The same place we chose for one of our first meals!

A Parisian favourite of ours…
The dessert was to die for!

After dinner we walked back to the hotel, saying goodbye to everything we passed by.

There’s a saying, “We’ll always have Paris.” And we will. No matter how old we get, how far we go, how much we change or don’t change…Paris will always be with us. Like a big shiny diamond, glowing in our past. We might make it back one day, or we might never see it in person again. But it’s a part of us now. We’ll always have it.

To paraphrase Hemingway… “If you are lucky enough to have BEEN TO Paris AT ANY AGE, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”

Yes, I bent that quote to my will! But it’s true.

This concludes our 2023 Paris journey. It was everything and more!

We might see it again…maybe. As Audrey Hepburn said, “Paris is always a good idea.”

“Au revoir Paris. Je t’aime.”

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Paris – Day 5 – September 13th – EMMANUEL’S HIDDEN GEMS!

My 57th Birthday! In Paris!

THIS is 57!

We started my birthday off under the rainbow umbrellas of Le Ju’ in the Marais again. We visited this place a few times during our two weeks. They had the perfect quick breakfast of coffee, orange juice, baguettes and pain au chocolat!

A perfect bowl of coffee…
The outdoor patio at Le Ju’.

The highlight of our day was to be the two tours we booked with Emmanuel’s Hidden Gems. We had heard so many great things about Emmanuel’s tours and we were excited to experience them ourselves!

EMMANUEL’S HIDDEN GEMS FACEBOOK PAGE is the best way to contact Emmanuel. There’s a MESSAGE button at the top of the page. Emmanuel also has a Facebook Group, which you can find here.

Throughout our two week trip, we booked 4 of the 6 tours Emmanuel offers. For my birthday, we had 2 of those tours— The Marais in the morning and Montmartre in the afternoon. It doesn’t get much better than that!

As the name of Emmanuel’s tours suggests, these are carefully curated tours that will show you the hidden gems of the areas specific to each tour. You’ll see things you might otherwise walk past or miss all together. And there are stories to go along with the places Emmanuel points out along the way. I’ve been to these areas in the past, but these tours opened them up to me in new ways. I loved the details of the stories shared, and I really did feel like we were discovering hidden gems.

I’ll share a couple photos from each tour, but I wouldn’t want to give it all away by oversharing photos of everything we saw.

The Marais is rich with history and Emmanuel’s knowledge of the area gave us a wealth of information we would have otherwise missed. He brought the Marais to life for us.
Emmanuel took us to so many special places on his Marais tour that we might have simply passed by without being shown. Truly hidden gems!

The Marais tour also has a couple well curated food stops, as well. Be prepared for some awesome delicacies!

After an amazing morning discovering some secrets of the Marais, Michael and I made our way to Montmartre. Reluctantly, we decided to take the Metro. We very rarely take the Metro. It’s excellent and extremely easy, but we prefer to walk. Walking in Paris, the journey is as exciting as the destination.

When you come up out of the Metro at Abbesses station (there are a LOT of stairs out of this station, so you might want to take the elevator up), you will see the Wall of Love directly behind the Metro exit.

We took a peek at the wall while we waited for the Montmartre tour to begin. We visited this sight when we were in Paris in 2021.

Emmanuel walked us around the neighbourhood of his childhood, entertaining us with amazing stories and more of the hidden gems an outsider might not notice on their own. The way he peppered stories and memories into his walking tour was perfect. It made the place open up to us and made us feel a deeper connection with it.

Another great thing about Emmanuel’s tours is that once he’s finished showing you the details off the beaten path, he ends the tours in the heart of the area. The Montmartre tour ended at the back of Sacré-Cœur Basilica, a perfect place to begin to explore the area on your own after learning so much of the neighbourhood’s history! HUGE thank you to Emmanuel for making my birthday such an extra special day! We saw so many amazing things on these two tours!

The Instagram famous La Maison Rose, in the heart of Montmartre.

Our expectations for Emmanuel’s first two tours were met and exceeded! It was the perfect way to spend my birthday.

After the Montmartre tour, and a little walk around the Basilica, we were off in the direction of our next stop! We chose Bouillon Chartier for my birthday dinner. We’d eaten there during our 2021 visit and enjoyed it very much. Time for a redo! It was just as wonderful as our memories suggested.

After dinner, we were in for one of those amazing Paris walks where you take in so many beautiful sights all at once…the kind of thing that makes you feel like a flâneur out for an endless stroll to nowhere and everywhere all at once!

We hit the Louvre…
Naturally, after the Louvre comes the Tuileries.
We walked along the river…
We snapped the obligatory tower shot selfie while we walked along the banks of the Seine…
Or…maybe we took a few! So what! It was my 57th birthday and we were in PARIS! Here’s another of his infamous peekaboo photobombs!
The Eternal Flame, newly festooned with memorials to Princess Diana. It was the anniversary of her death a month before. We walked past this monument several times in 2021 when we stayed in the 9th.

After our long wander, we capped off my birthday with a show. We went to CRAZY HORSE PARIS. Fun show! Different.

So ends another birthday, in one of my favourite cities in the world with one of my favourite people in the world! Pure Magic!

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