Camino de Santiago – Day 7 – O Cebriero to Triacastela.

It’s the town called Three Castles that has no castles. That’s where we ended our day. Sadly, the castles didn’t cross the journey through the years. They are long gone.

We started at 7:24am today. Only a few minutes of near darkness. We only had about 21.5 kms to go. My step count says less for the first time ever!

We are lying in our bed after having the best Menu del Dia in all of my Caminos! This albergue, Pension Casa Simón, is absolutely beautiful. We booked breakfast for tomorrow for €8. Fried eggs and the works. Communal table. Can’t wait! This place is huge. We’re on the second floor. If you know anything about Europe, you know that’s actually the 3rd floor. First floor is zero here. The pension is literally right beside the church. The yard you can use for hanging laundry is directly across from the church.

Mural on the way into town. This wasn’t here in 2019.
Lovely sitting area. I wish this coffee table would fit in my backpack!
Honour system drinks. Coin Bank on the table and price list on the wall…

We’re very happy here.

I said something about food, right? Best meal ever.

Do yourself a favour and eat your meal at Restaurante Esther. So good! The Caldo Galego is the best! We had the Menu del Dia and we both chose the Caldo Galego and the chorizo sausage. So so good! They brought a huge bowl of soup with a ladle. It was enough for 2 bowls for Michael and 3 bowls for me. He loves me! The chorizo was incredible, as were the fries. I had my first Tarta de Santiago of this trip. So simple and delicious! 😊Michael got the O Cebriero cheese with honey.

Oh. And I guess I should say we walked today!! Just a couple pics of the Way today. I took lots and lots, but I’m so tired I want to end this blog post. This black cat followed us for about 2 or 3 kms first thing in the morning.

I wanted to take him/her home. He wanted petting so bad.

We got to see the wind blown man statue at Alto Do San Rogue. I am so incredibly blessed.

In 2014 when I was there with our large group led by Sue Kenney, it was raining, it was cold, it was foggy. One of our group, Connie, went the wrong way and almost disappeared into a huge heavy fog bank. We saw her just in time to call her back to the fold. I fell in love with Connie on the Camino. I knew we were going to be lifelong friends. Sadly, she died the next year. Such a beautiful soul.

After the windblown pilgrim, we hit quite a few little towns today. We were fortunate enough to see 14 horses pass us by. Gorgeous creatures.

I asked Michael to smile like he was having fun. Here’s the result of my request…

I’ll take it. His face lights up when he smiles, but I’ll take Grumpy Michael too. ❤️

We stopped at a few places, but I have to mention my favourite albergue on the Camino. ALBERGUE A REBOLEIRA. Angela, who ran it when I stayed there in 2014 and 2019, is so lovely. She’s staying in Vigo now, and travelling. I met her son and passed on my best wishes to Angela. He was so nice. Stay here, if it works with your itinerary. Her son took over after she retired. He’s running it as she would… as lovely as always. Book it!

After Fonfría, we passed through another couple of towns before making it to Triacastela. One thing I want to mention about coming into Triacastela is the tree in Ramil! The Castiñeira de Ramil tree in Ramil, just outside of Triacastela. This tree is over 800 years old, with some estimates placing it up to 850 years old. The perimeter of the trunk is approximately nine meters. Touching it has to be good luck, right?! I made Michael touch it and pose for a pic. Beautiful!

Then… Blah, blah, blah… we were in Triacastela!

It’s bedtime, peregrinos! 5:36pm.

Buen Camino! Sarria is where we walk to tomorrow. The starting point for those who wish to receive the Compostela in Santiago de Compostela. You must walk at least 100km… and Sarria is the place to start if you are going to walk the least amount to receive it.

Buen Camino!!!

Click here to jump to DAY 8 – Triacastela to Sarria!

If you’ve found this post helpful and would like to support this page, you can do so by buying me a coffee! KevinCraig-BuyMeACoffee

While you’re here, I wrote a novel set on the Camino Frances route. You can check it out at Amazon here: THE CAMINO CLUB

Camino de Santiago – Day 6 – Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebriero

Friends, this is a long, long day. When planning your Camino, you might want to consider ending before O Cebriero. That way you would climb at the beginning of your day instead of at the end. It truly is all steep uphill for more than the last 5 kms. I want to say it was 7 kms of climbing, but it may have been a bit less.

Again, we started in the dark. We left our albergue at 6:44am.

Things you see on the way out of Villafranca del Bierzo…

My favourite thing is my favourite statue on the whole Camino!

On the way out of town, you have two options. Go to the left. I’ve heard from several people that the right is brutal. All climbing. You can tell just by looking at the right option that it’s crazy steep right from the beginning.

There are several places along the way that you can stop if you do the leg the same way we did it.

Our first stop… Las Coronas in Pereje.

Money from around the world…

Our second stop… In Trabadelo. In 2014 I stayed in this albergue. It’s lovely. We stopped at Bar Crispeta.

Right before you enter Trabadelo, there are stacks of logs. They were there in 2014, 2019, and today. Selfies each time. Here’s today’s…

As you leave Trabadelo, look into the attic windows. You’ll see this charming girl. She has always been there too…

Soon, you will find yourself alongside the highway for quite a while.

Our third stop…looked like a very cool place. Only 4 beds for this albergue. But it’s very rock and roll. You wouldn’t be making a mistake working it into your itinerary. Apparently, they also have rock and roll pizza. It wasn’t available when we went, but we just wanted an Aquarius. VEGABOND VIERIAS.

This was a long day. We don’t usually stop this much!

Catch the feats of engineering on these highways in the sky!!

I might be too afraid to drive on these.

Ruitelan was the small town we walked through next.

Soon after, we went to Las Herrerías. This is where we stayed in 2019. The albergue is fully closed and empty. It was a sad sight to see. It was beautiful. And we had great food there. It was an absolute charmer. It’s now up for sale. We were so looking forward to stopping here for refreshments.

A little further into town, we found an albergue to stop in. It was quite beautiful too. I would definitely stay there…

In Las Herrerías you can book horse rides up the mountain to O Cebriero. We saw them coming back down.

This good boy was going home on his own. He pulled over and stopped when a car went by, just like we did.

After Las Herrerías–and I mean RIGHT after–the steep climb begins!! Ugh. It’s so much work. The photos do not capture the incline, but your relation to the mountains does…

Once you’re almost to the top, you’ll come to the Galicia landmark. You have reached Spanish Nirvana. My favourite region.

Galicia!

O Cebriero is mercifully close. Once you see The Lady of O Cebriero, you can breathe a sigh of relief! You’ve made it! Isn’t she beautiful?!

O Cebriero is a gorgeous town! Father Elías Valiña, the parish priest of O Cebreiro, reinvigorated the Camino when he used leftover roadwork paint to paint yellow arrows all along the way. He did this along the French Way in the 1980s, and he now has a place of honour at the church in O Cebriero.

We checked into our albergue, Casa Anton, had quick showers, then went out for supper our first Caldo Galego! Galician soup!! I love it! Hope to have it every day going forward!

It’s bedtime. 7:09pm and we’re dead tired! Tomorrow we go to Triacastela. Until then, Buen Camino!!

Click here to jump to DAY 7 – O Cebriero to Triacastela!

If you’ve found this post helpful and would like to support this page, you can do so by buying me a coffee! KevinCraig-BuyMeACoffee

While you’re here, I wrote a novel set on the Camino Frances route. You can check it out at Amazon here: THE CAMINO CLUB

Camino de Santiago – Day 5 – Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

Today, we began our walk at 6:58am. It was in the dark, but close to daybreak.

This was my third time walking out of Ponferrada. Everything looked very familiar.

It was a long day, and according to Google Fit I burned more calories than any other day. I honestly thought the two previous days were harder, though. Go figure!

It was quite a slog out of town. Our first stop… I didn’t pay much attention to the name of the place. I felt like the person there was miserable in her work. The service was good, but not friendly.

As always, there were great views along the way. And we went through Cacabelos. This is the place where one of the main characters of my novel THE CAMINO CLUB  was introduced to Creepy Jesus of Cacabelos. Clair takes Troy for a late night walk in Cacabelos to show him Creepy Jesus at the church with the albergue.

Creepy Jesus of Cacabelos.

You can pick up your copy of The Camino Club wherever books are sold.

After Cacabelos, we headed for Villafranca del Bierzo. We took a different route this time. The last two times I made this walk I went through the vineyards. This time, we chose the road… which was shorter. At the end, we still got a taste of the vineyard path. It was nice to be in them, but also nice to shave off a km or two. If you’re doing the Camino for the first time, I suggest you cut right into the vineyards instead of taking the road. The famous house on the hill that has been in countless Instagram shots is much nicer on the vineyard path. We still saw it today, but from a different angle…

There were some gorgeous vistas to spoil us with beauty again today…

Follow the yellow arrows to Santiago de Compostela…

The walk into the destination town is always the best feeling! Seeing Villafranca del Bierzo was such a blessing! Our albergue is lovely. We’re staying at Hostel El Campano, which is just a short walk from the main plaza with the restaurants… Plaza Mayor.

We ate at Restaurante El Casino. The menu del Dia has lots of options to choose from. We spent €32. We had Two salads, two mains, two desserts, bottle of wine, one Coke Zero.

I was tired. Please excuse the thumb!

Time to crash for the day. Yes, I know it’s only 5:03pm, but it’s been a long day and we are climbing to O Cebriero tomorrow! We need our sleep.

Onward (AND UPWARD!) to O Cebriero tomorrow! Buen Camino, peregrinos/peregrinas!

On we go!

Click here to jump to DAY 6 – Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebriero!

If you’ve found this post helpful and would like to support this page, you can do so by buying me a coffee! KevinCraig-BuyMeACoffee

While you’re here, I wrote a novel set on the Camino Frances route. You can check it out at Amazon here: THE CAMINO CLUB