Paris – Day 14 – September 22nd – Last Day in Paris! Montmartre, Ladurée, Tour Saint-Jacque, Le Relais de l’Entrecote and Goodbye!

Our last full day in Paris sprung up to meet us, and we were not prepared!

The day began with the threat of rain. After two weeks of great weather, we couldn’t really complain about the two drizzly days at the end… could we?

We began our day with a walk to Montmartre, taking in everything on the way. We were saying goodbye to a beautiful city with every step we took.

The foot of the staircase that leads to Sacré-Cœur Basilica at the apex of Montmartre.
The fountains just prior to the last staircase from the top…

Sacré-Cœur Basilica is an amazing place to view the city. From the top of the hill, all of Paris spreads out below you…

Just a few steps along the way to the top!

Sacré-Cœur Basilica really is an architectural wonder!

And, yes, of course we did the thing where the sinking house is sinking! The Sinking House of Montmartre is now officially famous…

The trickery seems fitting for the bohemia of Montmartre…

Prior to this visit, it seemed there was always a service taking place in Sacré-Cœur. I had only ever been able to stand at the back and look into the church. For this visit, though, we had the entire church open to us!

I really got a sense of just how vast the basilica really was. Glad we chose this day to go.

We did a LOT of walking around on our last day. After we walked around up in Montmartre for a while, and stopped in a little restaurant for a petit-déjeuner while waiting out the rain, we walked back down the hill.

Another thing we decided to check off our list! Macarons in Paris. Where else to do this but Ladurée!

One cannot merely window-shop at Ladurée!
Ladurée

We decided to take our treasure to the river and find a place to sit down there…another last day goodbye! The Seine called out to us. But, first, a Bouquiniste along the way.

The treasured Bouquinistes line the walkways beside the river…

With the river at our feet and the Louvre in our sights, we found a nice place to sit and gaze about…

If you want to say goodbye to a city, you need to walk that city, go to its hearts, wander aimlessly like a flâneur. But you also need to take little breaks, stop and sit and watch the city go by about you…have a treat…

We watched the river for a bit, knowing we were leaving it for a very long time…if not forever.

After our snack, we were ready to continue our exploration and goodbyes.

Two weeks and we still hadn’t made our way to the pretty Square du Vert-Galant! We needed to remedy that. This is the pretty little park at the western tip of the Ile de la Cité…next to the Pont Neuf! Such a lovely spot.

Another must-do item on the bucket list was Tour Saint-Jacque. We kept missing out on it. The visiting hours are hard to nail down and possibly sporadic. Anyway, Michael said THIS IS THE DAY. And it was so…

This tower is one of the iconic starting points for the Camino de Santiago…

Michael stayed behind, waiting at the bottom. I went with a small tour group. There are over 300 steps to the top of the tower and it’s a low narrow spiral staircase. A bit of a workout. You need to be fit to do this tour.

There is SO much to see on the way up!

Once you get to the top, that’s the real prize! It’s definitely one of THE best views of the city. I feel like I kept saying that no matter where we went, but this time…it was just spectacular! In every direction!

I was truly stunned by the spectacle of it. The entire city was just there! The skies had cleared and it was a perfect September day…and the city opened up!

Even Sacré-Cœur and Montmartre were there, for one last goodbye…

I couldn’t get enough!

It was time to come back down to earth! Michael was waiting…and we had dinner plans!

It was time to say goodbye to Saint-Germain-des-Prés! But not before returning to one of our favourite restaurants and visiting the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés (Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés).

I couldn’t decide if the church was gaudy or beautiful, but I suppose some things could be both. It reminded me a bit of Sainte-Chapelle, only without all the glass.

What did we choose for our last meal in Paris? The same place we chose for one of our first meals!

A Parisian favourite of ours…
The dessert was to die for!

After dinner we walked back to the hotel, saying goodbye to everything we passed by.

There’s a saying, “We’ll always have Paris.” And we will. No matter how old we get, how far we go, how much we change or don’t change…Paris will always be with us. Like a big shiny diamond, glowing in our past. We might make it back one day, or we might never see it in person again. But it’s a part of us now. We’ll always have it.

To paraphrase Hemingway… “If you are lucky enough to have BEEN TO Paris AT ANY AGE, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”

Yes, I bent that quote to my will! But it’s true.

This concludes our 2023 Paris journey. It was everything and more!

We might see it again…maybe. As Audrey Hepburn said, “Paris is always a good idea.”

“Au revoir Paris. Je t’aime.”

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Paris – Day 9 – September 17th – Last Museum Pass Day – d’Orsay, Sainte-Chapelle and Much More!

Day 9 was a FULL day. Weren’t they all?

  • Angelina’s (on a whim!)
  • Arc de Triomphe
  • Trocadéro
  • Musée D’Orsay
  • Rosie’s Smokehouse
  • Sainte-Chapelle

The first thing on our agenda for this day was Arc de Triomphe. As it was a beautiful day and we mostly chose to walk over taking the Metro, we started off in the direction of the Arc…taking Rue de Rivoli almost all the way.

We quickly remembered that there was something along Rue de Rivoli that we were itching to experience…ANGELINA’S! We had yet to have the melted hot chocolate drink Paris is so well known for. Actual chocolate, as opposed to the powdered sachets most North Americans are familiar with.

Leave space for spontaneity in your days! We were so glad we had the time to visit this iconic restaurant!

Thick rich melted chocolate, in a cup! Madness and bliss!

We opted for the petit dejeuner…no sense NOT having a bite to eat while we were there. It was delicious!

Soon after Angelina’s, we found ourselves on the Champs-Élysées! Sidenote: This is French for Elysian Fields, the place for dead heroes in Greek mythology. Sidesidenote: Elysian Fields was the street that Stella & Stanley Kowalski lived on in A Streetcar Named Desire. But back to our day…

It turned out that, for some unknown (to us) reason the Champs-Élysées had become a pedestrian road for the day. Maybe they knew we were coming, so they planned it in our honour? Nope…as much as I would have loved that to be the truth, it is frequently closed for this purpose. I believe mostly on Sundays. Sidenote: In 2021, around 64,000 cars traveled down the eight-lane avenue each day. So for us to have it to ourselves to walk on was quite a special event. Where those 64,000 cars went to on this particular day, I don’t know!

A rare car-less Champs-Élysées moment just for us…

Us and the Arc…
The formidable Arc de Triomphe looms over the Champs-Élysées, its protector, its pearl…

The spiral staircase inside the Arc strikes fear in me every time. My first visit was right after I walked the Camino de Santiago in Spain in 2014. I found these stairs to be way more difficult than the mountains of Galicia!
This happens to be one of my favourite sculptures in Paris…found near the top of the Arc de Triomphe, just prior to walking up and out onto the rooftop terrace. If you look back at the photo of the sculpture on the outside of the Arc that I posted, you might see a similar face among the warriors of that sculpture…
Even the headpiece matches that of the warrior on the outside sculpture…
The views from atop the Arc are among my favourite of Paris. Something about being in the middle of the wheel, with all the streets spoke-ing out and away from us…it’s gorgeous!
This is the kind of forever that I love to look out upon!
Every view in Paris is better than the view from atop the Eiffel Tower…because when you’re at the top of the Eiffel Tower, the tower is not part of the view…

Next, we were headed for Trocadéro. My third trip to Paris, and I had never been to Trocadéro.

This is a famous spot for great photos of the tower. It’s directly across the Seine from the tower, and raised…making it a great view.
There are several great vantage points to snap the tower here!
Yes, of course we did the very touristy red heart balloons photo shoot while we were there!

After Trocadéro, it was time to walk over to one of my favourite Paris museums. Musée d’Orsay! We were really making the most of our Paris Museum Passes. If you go to Paris and you only see one or two museums, make sure d’Orsay is among them. It’s the cream of the crop. Beautiful architecture and gorgeous exhibits.

Musée d’Orsay was once a train station…you can see vestiges of that incarnation the moment you enter…

The d’Orsay is such a perfectly curated museum. Every piece is a wonder. Some of the world’s greatest works reside there…

There was a tightrope walker walking the depth of the museum while we were there!

There’s a wonderful window in d’Orsay that looks out onto the Seine. It has a clock in it, but you can look through the clock onto a wonderful vista of Paris…

They also have one of the most beautiful Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec paintings in existence…

Our next stop for this day was for dinner. This wasn’t spur of the moment, but it was a place that wasn’t on our radar when we were back home planning. We first walked into Rosie’s Smokehouse needing only a drink a few days earlier. We picked it at random. The staff was nice and the atmosphere amazing. And the beer was cold.

After two stop-ins, we had decided to give their food a go…so this was our third time there. It did NOT disappoint…

After dinner, it was a short walk over to the Sainte-Chapelle neighbourhood. I had purchased tickets for a Sainte-Chapelle concert for Michael’s birthday…a belated present. First, the tickets came with a glass of champagne served at a restaurant across the street from the church.

After our champagne, complete with an ice cream dessert, we headed over to the chapel for the concert…

But first a little sit-down by the river…because no matter how well we planned things, there were always a few extra minutes here and there that we wanted to fill with magic!

We had great seats! And, if you ever have the opportunity to go to a concert at Sainte-Chapelle…DO IT! It was pure magic. The setting, the acoustics, everything! Just stunning…

So ends another day in the City of Light! With a quick late night stroll back to our hotel, we were done with another of our quickly disappearing days. A walk back across the river on one of its beautiful bridges, filled with music and the sights and smells of Paris, and we were ready for bed.

 

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