Day 4! Viana do Castelo to Caminha!
Our last day in Portugal. After this day’s walk, we were going to be just a short boat ride away from Spain.
As soon as we began our walk in Viana do Castelo the next morning, I was struck by the beauty of the architecture.


There seemed to be churches around every corner. We even met a Facebook Camino group friend inside one of them. It’s quite a shock when someone comes up to you in a foreign country and calls you by your name. Believe it or not, it happened twice on this Camino. It happened inside the church pictured above, and once again in Santiago de Compostela while we were walking down the street and a Twitter mutual called out a hello. It’s a small world now that social media connects us all.


It was gonna be one of those days. Building after building, it was all so gorgeous.


Soon, we made our way out of the town and back to the solitude of the Camino. In an interesting turn of events, things were beginning to look a little familiar. Even though we had never been in this part of Portugal before.

What we began to notice was that, though we were still in Portugal, the Camino was taking on the look we remembered of the Camino Frances. Small towns, abandoned buildings, narrow alleyways. It felt like Spain…




This was so typically the Camino Frances, that we appeared to be in Spain before crossing into Spain. Portugal light, perhaps.



So close to Galicia. It was in the air, that mossy always almost wet feeling. The bright greenness of it all. The closer we got to Caminha, Portugal, the nearer we were to leaving the country and slipping seamlessly into Spain.


Every footstep brought us closer. It didn’t matter that we were still a day away from crossing the river into a new country…the vibes were already bringing us there.


We found an absolutely gorgeous place to stop for a cupcake and a break.



The trick about the Senda Litoral route, though, is that even when you think you’re far away from the shore, you eventually come back to it with a few simple turns.

We were close to the end of our day. Caminha was just around the corner. And so was an amazing apartment we booked through Booking dot com. We had no idea just how nice the place was.



I tried to link this amazing apartment that we found on BOOKING DOT COM, but unfortunately they took it off the market. It was by far my favourite place we stayed. Pure magic. I would live in that apartment!
ETA: I revisited this apartment online recently (2024) to see if anything changed and it IS available. Looks like they take it off and put in back on…maybe seasonal? Anyway, it’s called CASA DO CAIS DE CAMINHA and it’s exceptional! Click the link to see if it’s on the market when you’re planning. It’s right in town and it would be a great place for a break day…or even just to get your bearings in a private accommodation for a night.
It was time for bed. In the morning, we would make the two minute walk to the boat launch and set out on our first day in SPAIN!

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I’m also an author. One of my novels, a young adult story, is set on the Camino Frances route of the Camino de Santiago. THE CAMINO CLUB. It follows six teens on their journey from Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela. The teens walk with court appointed counselors in a juvenile delinquent program that will see them free of their records once they make the journey to Santiago…a clean slate. Think of a more diverse The Breakfast Club, but on the Camino de Santiago over two weeks instead of in a school library on a Saturday. Give it a look! It’s available wherever books are sold. Here’s the Amazon USA link.
Really enjoying your blog. My wife and I will be doing the Camino Portuguese ( Porto to Santiago late April/early May ‘24. Once we hit Caminha we will continue on the Portuguese side through to Valença. I probably missed it in your blog but what apartment did you stay in Caminha? Caminha will be one of our stops.
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Thanks so much for reading. The apartment we stayed in in caminha was my favourite place in all my Caminos. Unfortunately, when I went to link it from booking dot com, it said that it is no longer available. They took it off the rental market. Sorry. It was pure perfection. Bom Caminho!! Enjoy and be safe.
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