Travel – Page 6 – KEVIN CRAIG

Paris – Day 2 – September 10th 2023

This was the first morning we woke up in Paris. Our plan was to take it easy and explore. We did have an agenda, though.

Visit Hôtel de Ville to see the Olympic rings
Go to Le Ju’ in the Marais for breakfast
Find Passages
Galeries Lafayette for the rooftop terrace
Free Carnavalet Museum in the Marais
le Relais de l’Entrecôte for supper

Michael wanted to visit the Olympic Rings displayed at Hôtel de Ville and it was in the same neighbourhood as the restaurant we wanted to check out. Le Ju’ ended up being our go to breakfast place throughout our trip. On Instagram, I knew it as the place with the rainbow umbrellas. In person, we found it charming, affordable and with great staff. And COFFEE BY THE BOWL!

The peekaboo is very quick to come out in him!

Do yourself a favour and Google Map Le Ju’. You’ll like starting your day there!

It’s the place with the rainbow umbrellas!

After breakfast, the plan was to walk to Galeries Lafayette and take advantage of their rooftop terrace for views and the Paris sign.

It was on our way there that we found our first Passages. I’ve been intrigued with them, but I don’t remember ever seeing one. We found two on our way to GL. They were directly across the street from each other.

These passages are very boutique…with lovely stores inside. Even the famous Hotel Chopin can be found in one such passage.

Next up was Galeries Lafayette.

Everything is SO big in Paris. I always feel dwarfed by the hugeness of things. Galeries Lafayette is no exception.

And the views from the rooftop of GL were stunning. So glad we visited!

The Palais Garnier…the Opera, which we would be visiting later in our visit.

It was now time for the FREE Musée Carnavalet in the Marais!

The courtyard entrance to the **Musée Carnavalet**.

This museum is dedicated to the history of Paris itself. It can be found in TWO neighbouring mansions that are now combined into one large building the (Hôtel Carnavalet and the former Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint Fargeau). The buildings have been around since the 16th century. Imagine walking about inside a building built in the 1500s. That alone is worth the visit.

The exhibits in this museum were exceptional. It’s truly worth the price of the ticket. It’s incomprehensible that the price is ZERO.

The first hallway you enter is filled with signage saved from the streets of old Paris.

The rooms themselves are absolutely stunning, not to mention the artworks on display. I’ll just share a few photos here to give you an idea. It truly is a MUST SEE museum. There’s a garden with a restaurant as well, should you be so inclined.

After the Carnavalet, we were headed to Saint-Germain-des-Prés. This is one of Paris’s most iconic neighbourhoods. One could just walk around for a few minutes and they’d find several of the famous cafes of the 1920s Lost Generation. Yes, they’re still in operation today. Here’s a sampling of the ones we passed by…all within a block of one another and all iconic.

Perhaps the most iconic of all, Les Deux Magots.

But we went in a different direction for our second supper in Paris. Also iconic, though not with as much history as the others, is le Relais de l’Entrecôte. I don’t even know why I love this restaurant so much. Normally, you could not pay me to eat steak. Something about the frenetic charm of this place gets to me. It shares my love for all things quirky.

le Relais de l’Entrecôte, with hints of Seinfeld’s Soup Nazi wafting around, mingled with the aroma of fresh cut fries and medium done steak. Be prepared for something a little different.

This restaurant opens around 6:45pm, but don’t be one of those people who show up after 6:00pm…because you will find A LINE. The line will eventually go around the block and yet it still doesn’t seem to deter guests from queuing up.

There is only one thing on the menu. Fries and Steak. When you’re seated, they’ll ask how you want your steak done and what you would like to drink. They’ll write this information on your paper tablecloth.

Before this restaurant, I’ve been sworn off steak for life. I’m so adamant about it, I’m nervous to admit I eat it here. This sauce is magic.

Such a great meal. Such a fun place.

That was the end of our second day in Paris. But in Paris walking home is, in itself, an event. There was still a lot to see before our heads hit the pillow.

More Paris awaits us! Day 3 and beyond!

Direct Link to Previous Day

Link to Next Day

If you would like to SKIP OVER Day 3 & 4 (DISNEY PARIS) click this link to go directly to DAY 5!

Paris – The Arrival – Saturday September 9th

There’s no place like Paris. We loved it so much when we visited for a week in 2021, that we just had to go back and spend more time there. This time, we decided to do two weeks. One just wasn’t enough…it just made us want Paris more.

We flew out of Toronto on Friday, September 8th with a hefty itinerary that would make even the most hardy travelers weak in the knees. We were going to see it all, do it all, eat it all, walk it all…

But day one would be light. We would just take it easy, do a couple of things and have an early evening to avoid this mystical thing they call jet lag…something I myself have not yet experienced.

From the moment we first saw the reviews and images of our chosen hotel, Hôtel de Roubaix, we knew we had picked the right place…the right for us place! It promised funky, cool, boutique, off-kilter fun. And from the moment I entered the place, I knew that it had delivered its promise in spades.

The lobby of Hôtel de Roubaix on the border of the Marais in Paris was just perfect for us!

I stepped inside and the lyrics, “Funky little shack!!!” played loudly in my head.

I was in love. Quirky does not begin to describe the playful decor.

I love when places do not take themselves too seriously, but take their dedication to a high level of service seriously. It was as offbeat as it was impeccable.

I would highly recommend this hotel. It’s listed as a two-star hotel. It’s clean, it had GREAT air conditioning and a phenomenal shower. The rooms are small, but this is something we have come to expect in Paris. The air conditioning, I was not expecting. The staff were super friendly and there when we needed them. The front desk is 24hr service. There was a breakfast room downstairs, so you could pay extra to have breakfast included. We chose not to, but we toured the breakfast room and it was well stocked. I don’t think you’d be let down by the offerings. We just wanted to get out into the streets for breakfast.

We also walked our neighbourhood on our first day. The Centre Pompidou and the Tour Saint-Jacque are both only minutes away from the hotel.

Le Centre Pompidou. As luck would have it, we picked the right time to visit. It’s about to close for a few years for an overhaul and redesign.

I remembered this artwork from my first trip to Paris in 2014. Had to shoot it again!

Climbing the Tour Saint-Jacque ultimately became one of my favourite events of this past trip to Paris. Put it on your itinerary. You won’t be disappointed. Some of the best views of Paris. Not for the weak at heart…over 300 spiral staircase steps to the top!

After seeing a couple of things in our own neighbourhood, we walked down to the river to take in Le Grande Dame de Paris (Our Lady of Paris).

Still wounded, she is nonetheless beautiful. Seeing her from behind the curtains of fencing and scaffolding is almost just as grand. She’ll be back to her former self soon. We were happy to see her.

We had three more stops before our first dinner in Paris…a dinner we booked weeks in advance and were eagerly anticipating!

I had to go to Shakespeare & Company first thing! Of course I did.

The iconic bookstore I just can’t get enough of…

And right beside Shakespeare’s cafe beside the bookstore, is a park. A park that houses the oldest tree in Paris. We paid it a quick visit prior to going to a little place on a street behind the bookstore.

Paris’s oldest tree, in Square René Viviani. This is located across the street from Shakespeare & Company…beside the cafe.

Before supper, we would sneak in ONE pastry…a cream puff of sorts. If you turn down the little side street right beside the Shakespeare & Company Cafe, you can almost see Odette standing sentinel at the end of the street. It’s a little cream puff place that has become Instagram famous.

Odette’s, a charming little place in a quaint quiet backstreet two minutes from Shakespeare & Company.

We only had one each! Talk about restraint.

These cream puffs were to die for! Must haves if you visit Paris!

We enjoyed Au Pied de Cochon so much during our 2021 visit, that we booked it for our very first meal in Paris this time around. We were not disappointed. LOVE THAT PLACE!

That was enough of our Day 1. After supper, we made it an early night and walked back to our hotel. There was a big day ahead of us! Our Sunday wasn’t going to be too full, but there would be lots of walking. We had one more day in Paris before our two days of Disney were to begin!

(I’ll be posting our days here over the next few weeks. Stay tuned for travel tips and suggestions.)

Direct Link to DAY 2

Caminho Português Senda Litoral Route – Shoulds and Shouldn’ts PART THREE

You’ve made it to Pontevedra! And, yes…it does have a city sign like most of the city signs peppering the world today awaiting Instagram fame!

The ubiquitous city sign, spelled out for everyone to see and snap selfies at! Now found the world over…

Should I watch my step when walking the trails between towns?

Only if you care about wildlife in all its forms. Yes, please watch your step! Our little friends are down there…

Should I stop at A Pousada do Peregrino for a snack and a drink?

You’ll come by this little oasis shortly after leaving the town of Pontevedra. Click Link for their website.

We stopped here and you can’t go wrong in doing so. It has a lovely outdoor patio with a pergola trellis. Grapes hang above your head, offering a cool relief from the sun on a hot day. The food was good and there’s always cafe con leche!

The outdoor patio at A Pousada do Peregrino.

You will walk through a lot of vineyards at this point of the day. There are even quite a few places where you’ll need to duck to avoid grapes. Very picturesque day…

Should I stay in Caldas de Reis?

Now, obviously this all depends on your schedule. Caldas de Reis may be a halfway point to a day. In our schedule, it was at the end of our day. We felt it a good place to stop in case we needed any supplies at this point in our journey, as it was a bigger town and they would have more amenities. I would say AIM FOR IT. It was a lovely town.

It actually saved me a little. Once we settled into our home for the night, we went out and found me some sandals. At this point in our journey, my blisters were bad and my toes were bad. My feet were just completely breaking down and I knew if I didn’t find sandals I’d be in trouble. I never once had blisters on the Camino Frances. This Portuguese way was murdering my feet in every way possible. I found a nice man at a shoe shop who dug through boxes and found me the perfect pair of sandals that would save the trip for me. Another trail angel came through for me!

This is a good town for stocking up on whatever you need.

The wooden statue that tells you that you have arrived!

Should I eat at O Encontro Gastrobar in Caldas de Reis?

I REALLY enjoyed the food here. They were one of the first places we found with a pilgrim menu, and they were almost next door to where we were staying. At the end of the day, proximity has a lot to do with where you decide to eat. But also, it was good food! The service was a bit slow, but they could have just been having a bad day. Otherwise, I’d recommend this place. It hit the spot after a long day. My first Caldo Gallego (Galician Soup)!

Should I set out before on my walk in the dark?

I am of two minds on this one. Ultimately, my answer would be YES, sometimes. It is the only true way to get to see the perfection of a sunrise…when you are well and truly in it. To be walking when it happens assures that you will not miss it. And the sunrise in Spain is a thing of beauty. So, if you don’t want to (or won’t) do it for the sake of the bed-race…do it at least once to enjoy being inside the sunrise.

Scenes from a September Spanish Sunrise…

Should I stay in Pensión Glorioso II in A Picaraña?

This might be the only time I suggest the answer as a NO. I wouldn’t even stay in this town, if I were to do the Portuguese again. Not that it’s a terrible town, but there were few options. It was just kind of along the highway. It’s a place you would only stop for gas if you were driving through.

Does it have what you need? Mostly. Were the rooms clean? Yeah. Did the WiFi work in the pension? NO. The food options nearby were very limited and you had to navigate the highway outside the pension. We went from one side to the other, hoping to find other food options. I just wasn’t happy with this night’s location or lodgings. You might find it’s what you need. I was looking for more.

This was our last stay before Santiago de Compostela, and my least favourite.

We walked in darkness on our last morning. As the sun came up, it all began to feel a little like we were walking to OZ.

Should I stop walking now?

No…you’re almost there!

Even though I’m almost there, should I have a break before reaching the Praza do Obradoiro where the cathedral is?

Yes. Don’t lose sight of the fact that you need stamps on your last day! Stop for a cafe con leche on your way into town and grab a stamp!

Should I be prepared to be amazed?!

YES!

About to enter the Praza do Obradoiro and the circus of the arrival!

Should we take selfies of the cathedral once we arrive? Yes, after you celebrate, dance, laugh, cry, etc…

WE MADE IT! 10 days from Porto to Santiago de Compostela!

Should I go directly to the pilgrim’s office and sign in for my spot in line to get my compostela certificate?

If this matters to you, then absolutely yes! This process is changing ALL the time. I’ve been to this point 3 times now, and it’s been different every time. Last time, we scanned a QR code at the office and were given a number in the line. We came back when we were close to our numbers and then went inside and lined up. Please look into how it is when you’re going, because they streamline the process all the time.

One more SHOULD to go.

Should I do the rooftop tour of the cathedral?

Absolutely yes. If you have fear of height issues, maybe sit this one out…but it’s fabulous!

DON’T MISS THE ROOFTOP TOUR OF THE CATHEDRAL!

This concludes the Shoulds and Shouldn’ts of the Caminho Português Senda Litoral Route. Hopefully you find some helpful information in these posts.

If you want to see our 10 day journey in full, here is the link to DAY ONE. At the end of every day, you will find a link to the next day. After those, you will also find a couple of posts on what to do in Porto before and after the Caminho.

I’m also an author. One of my novels, a young adult story, is set on the Camino Frances route of the Camino de Santiago. THE CAMINO CLUB. It follows six teens on their journey from Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela. The teens walk with court appointed counselors in a juvenile delinquent program that will see them free of their records once they make the journey to Santiago…a clean slate. Think of a more diverse The Breakfast Club, but on the Camino de Santiago over two weeks instead of in a school library on a Saturday. Give it a look! It’s available wherever books are sold. Here’s the Amazon USA link.